Thursday, May 19, 2011

Cape Town!!! O snap !


Sanibonani!
                For past few days the group has been tearing up the sideways, freeways, beaches, mountains and valleys of Cape Town. We have seen a lot, heard a lot, and learned the most. We left Johannesburg on an early morning flight to Cape Town at a bright and early 6 am. Cape Town airport was sophisticated, chic, and as cosmopolitan as I’ve ever seen. Flags and pictures from nations across the world were joined on the walls with advertisements of the latest and largest South African investment banking and green energy corporations.  “Welcome’s” were said in at least 15 different languages, and after renting our car, off our group went to explore Cape Town. However, the realization that South Africa has the highest amount of inequality in the world quickly slapped me in my face. Immediately driving out of Cape Town International Airport parking lot, miles and miles of squatter camps were lined up along the highway. Many people were on the side of the freeway lighting small fires for burning garbage, or simply walking to a destination.
 A thin, poorly built fence separated inhabitants from speeding traffic. These camps are colloquially known as the infamous “Cape Town flats”. The African National Congress has just installed a row of functioning toilets in them this past year, yes the same year the World Cup in South Africa boosted the GDP 3%. Sadly, many of these toilets are not covered, often forcing residents to use the restroom without shelter, facing the entire neighborhood. While I have my qualms about western ideals of prudence and showing one’s “private parts” to have such poverty juxtaposed with ever increasing wealth was sad.  20 minutes later or so, we arrived in the town of Stellenbosch, French Chateau inspired, the town is filled with miles and miles (kilometers and kilometers) of wine vineyards. At the top of the hills are sprawling villas, filled with the latest German automobiles, and in the valley are innumerable colored and black people who are year round residential workers who man the vineyard, they live in shed-like compounds and wear uniforms while tending the vineyards. 
                Cape Town, like any other metropolitan city boasts awesome shopping, great food and sun bathing with the who’s who from Europe, unfortunately, amidst this continued notoriety for its “high class” there continues to remain and systematic and social exclusion of the poor. I learned that this exclusion has been going on since the 1600’s. We visited Robben Island, the Island where Nelson Mandela and thousands of other political and “common criminals” were held under the apartheid government. Surprisingly, this place has been used as a place for the outcast for centuries! First, the indigenous tribe to Cape Town, the Khoikhion,  were placed here when they did not comply with the “laws” of the Dutch sailors who landed on the island, it was later used as a leprosy colony, a common criminal prison, a political prison during apartheid, and finally a museum, a place of learning and reconciliation. Interestingly, many of the tour guides at Robben Island were ex-political prisoners, who use their opportunity as a bit of “healing”, and to imagine, this was during my lifetime….
                As entertaining and touristy these few things may seem, we did do more fun and less educational things while in Cape Town. Aside of visiting and splashing in the amazing beaches, I went to an excellent (mom you would have LOVED it) vineyard tour and wine-tasting of the historic Constantia area,  I took a cable car to the top of table mountain, visited the point where the Indian Ocean and Atlantic Ocean “meet”, went to the city park –which was something like Central Park, except tropical style (complete with city  rats and exotic birds), visited District 6 where violent forced removals of residents of the apartheid government caused national and international outcry, ate at the Waterfront, and visited a friend by the historic Mount Nelson Hotel.
                As I prepare to leave and get adjusted to Durban life (for the next week), Cape Town has definitely been amazing! Although internet has been a bit spotty (hence the giant post without much in-depth info).  
                Hopefully, I will have better access in Durban and keep you all up to speed!
Oh. PS- It was voting day this Wednesday in South African for local and parliamentary seats, so keep your eyes out on the news for results! The most hot topics this week were corruption under the ANC government (the party in power, who is the revolutionary party that ended apartheid), the historical legacy of racism within the Democratic Alliance, failing education system, the “retreat” of the large growing middle class from the working class, and how to continue the extensive social programs needed in a “developing” nation with tax base of only 6 million people, with 14 million people receiving government assistance. Keep an eye out on CNN (or BBC I guess J )


 Lauren

Here are photos!!
Leper Grave on Robben Island

Stellenbosch winery rest area

View of Capt Town from Table Mountain

We were 3,558ft in the air!

Old homes (for returning WWII soldiers) overlooking the ocean

Camp Bay Beach! (with Alpha and my LS Jessica!)

1 comment:

  1. hi, lauren,
    what a fascinating description of the inequities that are so clearly visible in cape town. nothing quite prepares you for the poverty that's so widespread. the interesting thing is that we have it in america, but it is not so out in the open like the open toilets in cape town.
    we like to hide ours...
    also, who was your guide at robben island prison? did they talk about their experience?
    i had a professor in college -- dennis brutus -- who had been imprisoned there. he was an exceptional and interesting man. but i suppose nothing will ever erase the pain or memories of breaking rocks at robben as an inmate.
    can't wait to read your next post!
    have a great time!
    love,
    bonnie

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